But Why Can't I Wear a Hipster Headdress?

(image from http://www.facebook.com/iamhowlingwolf, which is an entire post in itself. geez.)

I've posted a lot about the phenomenon that is the hipster headdress (see here, here, and here), but I've never really broken it down as to why this trend is so annoying and effed up. A lot of this will be review and is repeated elsewhere on the site, but I thought it was high time I pulled things together into a one-stop-anti-headdress shop. Much of this can also apply to any of the "tribal trends" I feature here, and you can also consider this a follow up to my "Cultural Appropriation Bingo" post. The many sources I drew from are included at the end of this post.

So why can't I wear it? 

• Headdresses promote stereotyping of Native cultures.
The image of a warbonnet and warpaint wearing Indian is one that has been created and perpetuated by Hollywood  and only bears minimal resemblance to traditional regalia of Plains tribes. It furthers the stereotype that Native peoples are one monolithic culture, when in fact there are 500+ distinct tribes with their own cultures. It also places Native people in the historic past, as something that cannot exist in modern society. We don't walk around in ceremonial attire everyday, but we still exist and are still Native.

• Headdresses, feathers, and warbonnets have deep spiritual significance.
  The wearing of feathers and warbonnets in Native communities is not a fashion choice. Eagle feathers are presented as symbols of honor and respect and have to be earned. Some communities give them to children when they become adults through special ceremonies, others present the feathers as a way of commemorating an act or event of deep significance. Warbonnets especially are reserved for respected figures of power. The other issue is that warbonnets are reserved for men in Native communities, and nearly all of these pictures show women sporting the headdresses. I can't read it as an act of feminism or subverting the patriarchal society, it's an act of utter disrespect for the origins of the practice. (see my post on sweatlodges for more on the misinterpretation of the role of women). This is just as bad as running around in a pope hat and a bikini, or a Sikh turban cause it's "cute".  

• It's just like wearing blackface.
  "Playing Indian" has a long history in the United States, all the way back to those original tea partiers in Boston, and in no way is it better than minstral shows or dressing up in blackface. You are pretending to be a race that you are not, and are drawing upon stereotypes to do so. Like my first point said, you're collapsing distinct cultures, and in doing so, you're asserting your power over them. Which leads me to the next issue.

• There is a history of genocide and colonialism involved that continues today.
  By the sheer fact that you live in the United States you are benefiting from the history of genocide and continued colonialism of Native peoples. That land you're standing on? Indian land. Taken illegally so your ancestor who came to the US could buy it and live off it, gaining valuable capital (both monetary and cultural) that passed down through the generations to you. Have I benefited as well, given I was raised in a white, suburban community? yes. absolutely. but by dismissing and minimizing the continued subordination and oppression of Natives in the US by donning your headdress, you are contributing to the culture of power that continues the cycle today.

But I don't mean it in that way, I just think it's cute!

• Well hopefully I've illuminated that there's more at play here than just a "cute" fashion choice. Sorry for taking away your ignorance defense. 

But I consider it honoring to Native Americans!

• I think that this cartoon is a proper answer, but I'll add that having a drunken girl wearing a headdress and a bikini dancing at an outdoor concert does not honor me. I remember reading somewhere that it was also "honoring the fine craftsmanship of Native Americans". Those costume shop chicken feather headdresses aren't honoring Native craftsmanship. And you will be very hard pressed to find a Native artist who is closely tied to their community making headdresses for sale. See the point about their sacredness and significance.

I'm just wearing it because it's "ironic"!

• I'm all for irony. Finger mustaches, PBR, kanye glasses, old timey facial hair, 80's spandex--fine, funny, a bit over-played, but ironic, I guess. Appropriating someone's culture and cavorting around town in your skinny jeans with a feathered headdress, moccasins, and turquoise jewelry in an attempt to be ‘counterculture’? Not ironic. If you’re okay with being a walking representative of 500+ years of colonialism and racism, or don’t mind perpetuating the stereotypes that we as Native people have been fighting against for just as long, by all means, go for it. But by embracing the current tribal trends you aren’t asserting yourself as an individual, you are situating yourself in a culture of power that continues to oppress Native peoples in the US. And really, if everyone is doing it, doesn't that take away from the irony? am I missing the point on the irony? maybe. how is this even ironic? I'm starting to confuse myself. but it's still not a defense.

Stop getting so defensive, it's seriously just fashion!

• Did you read anything I just wrote? It's not "just" fashion. There is a lot more at play here. This is a matter of power and who has the right to represent my culture. (I also enjoy asking myself questions that elicit snarky answers.) 

What about the bigger issues in Indian Country? Poverty, suicide rates, lack of resources, disease, etc? Aren't those more important that hipster headdresses?

• Yes, absolutely. But, I'll paraphrase Jess Yee in this post, and say these are very real issues and challenges in our communities, but when the only images of Natives that Americans see are incorrect, and place Natives in the historic past, it erases our current presence, and makes it impossible for the current issues to exist in the collective American consciousness. Our cultures and lives are something that only exist in movies or in the past, not today. So it's a cycle, and in order to break that cycle, we need to question and interrogate the stereotypes and images that erase our current presence--while we simultaneously tackle the pressing issues in Indian Country. They're closely linked, and at least this is a place to start.   

Well then, Miss Cultural Appropriation Police, what CAN I wear?

• If you choose to wear something Native, buy it from a Native. There are federal laws that protect Native artists and craftspeople who make genuine jewelry, art, etc. (see info here about The Indian Arts and Crafts Act). Anything you buy should have a label that says "Indian made" or "Native made". Talk to the artist. find out where they're from. Be diligent. Don't go out in a full "costume". It's ok to have on some beaded earrings or a turquoise ring, but don't march down the street wearing a feather, with loaded on jewelry, and a ribbon shirt. Ask yourself: if you ran into a Native person, would you feel embarrassed or feel the need to justify yourself? As commenter Bree pointed out, it's ok to own a shirt with kimono sleeves, but you wouldn't go out wearing full kabuki makeup to a bar. Just take a minute to question your sartorial choices before you go out.       

...and an editorial comment:  I should also note that I have absolutely nothing against hipsters. In fact, some would argue I have hipster-leaning tendencies. In my former San Francisco life, had been known to have a drink or two in the clouds of smoke outside at Zeitgeist, and enjoyed shopping on Haight street. I enjoy drinking PBR out of the can when I go to the dive bars near my apartment where I throw darts and talk about sticking it to 'The Man'. I own several fringed hipster scarves, more than one pair of ironic fake ray-ban wayfarers, and two plaid button downs. I'm also not trying to stereotype and say that all hipsters do/wear the above, just like not every hipster thinks it's cool to wear a headdress. So, I don't hate hipsters, I hate ignorance and cultural appropriation. There is a difference. Just thought I should clear that up.

This manifesto draws heavily from these awesome posts:

A l'allure garçonnière: The Critical Fashion Lovers (basic) guide to Cultural Appropriation

Threadbared: LINKAGE: The Feather In Your “Native” Cap
Racialicious: Some Basic Racist Ideas and Some Rebuttals & Why We Exist
GSU Signal: Mockery of Native heritage only perpetuates Native issues

Bitch Magazine: Ke$ha and the ongoing cultural appropriation and sexualization of Native women
Bitch Magazine/Racialicious: On Hipster/Hippies and Native Culture

The Hipster Headdress Abounds at Coachella

(image via www.shockhound.com)

Can you believe it's been almost 3 months since I first grappled with "The Strange Case of the Hipster Headdress?" Since then, I've definitely been shocked by just how much the trend has invaded indie/hipster culture, as well as more mainstream outlets (like Ke$ha on American Idol). Two weeks ago, the Coachella music festival was held in the desert of Southern California, and it seems like the go-to outfit of choice for attendees (and even some performers) included the now ubiquitous headdress. Abundant evidence below:

(image via GQ.com)

A commenter on the Coachella.com forum asks: "Why was every other douchebag at this year's festival dressed in a colorful Native American Feather Headress with neon paint all over their bodies?"

(via brooklynvegan.com)

Twitter user evlauren tweeted from the event: "Coachella Indian head dress count so far=2" (she got up to 4)

 (via trystlove.com)

Nylon Magazine reported that "The official uniform of Coachella is cut-off jean shorts, a drape-y, belly-baring white tee, and an Indian headdress." 

 (via stylesectionla.com)

Twitter user krishaleanne tweeted, the day before coachella: "packed for coachella. but still needed: an indian headdress, more confetti, light-up toys . . .oh and a ticket to coachella."

Then there was Icelandic artist Jonsi, who performed his set in a full-on warbonnet-type thing:

(via Nylon Magazine's flickr feed)

Which even made it to the bbc.com article on the festival:

(article and image here)

These are by no means exhaustive, there was a ridiculous amount of material to draw from. I just wanted to use this post to point out how prevalent it was, but look for a follow up that will offer a primer on just why and how this trend is harmful, hurtful, and effed up.

UPDATE 4/27: Here's the follow up post--But Why Can't I Wear a Hipster Headdress? 

Earlier: 

The strange case of the hipster headdress: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/02/strange-case-of-hipster-headdress.html

Ke$ha, American Idol, and a trend that won't do away: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/03/keha-headdress-and-trend-that-wont-go.html

(Thanks Jesse, Lici, Lisa and anyone else who sent me links!)

The Jezebel Fashion Post that keeps on giving

 (Jen Mussari's now iconic image :) )

I've come across some awesome blog posts in response to the Jezebel piece (found here) on Native fashion that Lisa at Sociological Images pulled together with images from this blog. The comment thread on the piece was really interesting, with people debating what should be deemed "ok" what is "offensive" and some just telling us all to STFU. I thought I would share a couple of the responses here. (If anyone knows of any others, please let me know)

Juila at a l'allure garçonnière posted a great response entitled "The Critical Fashion Lover's (basic) Guide to Cultural Appropriation" and it's definitely worth a read. I'm tempted to quote the entire thing. It's beautifully written and insightful. She says:

" I have heard a lot of arguments that there are way more important things we could be debating instead of cultural appropriation; that native people themselves don't give a shit if a severely intoxicated white hipster decides to tattoo pocahontas on his leg or if some magazine decides their next nude photoshoot should feature blonde women wearing headdresses. who knows! maybe the jingle dress will be the next hot thing in haute couture, but it doesn't impact the quality of life of the people who make, wear and perform in those dresses.

my response to this is clear and simple; i don't think the issue of institutional racism and discrimination can be completely divorced from the question of cultural appropration. they feed into one another. one would not exist (at least not in the same way) without the other. if we lived in a culture that acknowledged the fact that most of us live on stolen land in north america and that recognized native people as complex, diverse, intelligent people without romanticizing or glamourizing them, i'd like to think that it would put an end to these sorts of reductive stereotypes popping up in fashion, film, music scenes. reducing an entire culture to a simple "inspiration" for your outfit, art project, fashion collection, or photoshoot is disrespectful and unhelpful, especially when we look at the bigger picture."

 And later she addresses what many of the Jezebel commenters were struggling with--what is ok to wear and what isn't?

the biggest problem with the concept of cultural appropriation, in my opinion, is that it doesn't set out any explicit black and white rules for people to follow. as you can see based on the comments on jezebel, people are genuinely confused as to what the "right thing" to do in these situations are, and there's nothing wrong with that. you can't get answers if you aren't asking questions. my advice in these situations is largely about context, intention, and education.

She was able to put into words many of the issues I was struggling with after reading the comment chain. great stuff.

Another post came from Molly at the University of Michigan Arts Ink blog, entitled "The Hipster Headdress: A Fashion Faux Pas." The post itself is great, but I really appreciated the back-and-forth she posted in the comments between her and some facebook friends. It's really enlightening and says a lot:

Friend 3: …great opinionated synopsis molly, really like your writing style and i agree with the feathered headdress as a stupid hipster clique. Although to be honest, I sometimes wear a feather in my hair (completely in humble respect to the Native Americans)…a modest little decorative item once in awhile.

Molly: I think moccasins are items of comfort – though I realize there are “designer moccasins” out there selling for hundreds of dollars. You don’t put on a headdress because you lost your baseball cap. They’re not practical or comfortable. Plus, you can wear moccasins and walk down the street, go to a party, and nobody would really notice. I don’t know why people wear headdresses around, but whether or not it’s their intention – they get attention. I realize throwing in that P.S. is rather hypocritical regardless, but perhaps the note’d make more sense taking into account that Native Americans, at powwows, posts, what have you, might sell moccasins or dream catchers or other crafts – but you never see them selling headdresses (unless for ceremonial purposes, I suppose, but I’ve never seen a headdress for sale personally, at least). I found a hawk feather and wore it around for a little while. I don’t think single feathers are offensive, though I know that’s again flirting with contradiction. It’s like the difference between wearing some green eyeshadow or painting your entire body green. Also, I’m not insinuating that anyone who enjoys wearing headdresses occasionally is absolutely void of morals. I’m just not a fan.

Thanks to both of you for keeping the conversation going, I'm just so glad these issues are being discussed in the blog-o-sphere after remaining off the map for so long. Keep up the good work!



Julia's post: http://alagarconniere.blogspot.com/2010/04/critical-fashion-lovers-basic-guide-to.html

Molly's post: http://www3.arts.umich.edu/ink/2010/04/14/the-hipster-headdress-a-fashion-faux-pas/

The original Jezebel post: http://jezebel.com/5516362/feathers-and-fashion-native-american-is-in-style

Tribal Fashion Roundup!

(http://www.etsy.com/shop/coyotepheonix)

I've gotten a few tips this week about more tribal fashion appropriations, so I thought I would compile a few of them into a single post, because let's be honest, I'm a little lazy this week.

I found the image above thanks to Lanova posting my hipster headdress piece on a blog that "loved" this headdress (thanks girl!). It's from Coyote Pheonix's Etsy shop, and the description reads:

Great piece for burningman or other festivals. Looks great as a decoration piece hanging on the wall as well. Ties at the base of the neck like a headband with leather strap.

Also, one of the tags on the headdress is "shaman". Ok, appropriations aside, are there actually people out there who see this, swoon, and say "I must have this! my life is not complete until I have a dead coyote to wear on my head!". But, I guess, considering 14% of this fine nation thinks President Obama is, in fact, the Antichrist, I wouldn't be surprised that such people exist (related? not at all. but I just read these poll results, so...).

This one comes from my sister's fabulous suitemate Kathleen:

Belt and keychains from Jack Spade in Soho, website here. These seem pretty out of place with the whole Jack Spade asthetic, to me anyway. They're known for their preppy men's bags and accessories, with military inspirations and "timeless" pieces. Not usually what we'd associate with the Native trends. interesting.

Finally, a picture of a page from Lucky Magazine via my friend Genia (click to make it bigger):

The mocassins front and center are the Nicole Richie mocs I posted earlier, and there's a pendleton bag on the left. I love how Native American trends are "global"--um, you can't get more American than the styles of the original peoples in the US.

Just a few samples of many...I think I could start an entire blog of just Native Appropriations in fashion. sigh. 

Coyote headdress post: http://teenangster.net/2010/03/coyote-phoenix/

Earlier posts:
Tribal Fashion, the newest trend?: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/01/tribal-fashion-newest-trend.html

Nicole Richie's baby mocs: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/02/nicole-richies-baby-mocs.html

The Strange Case of the Hipster Headdress: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/02/strange-case-of-hipster-headdress.html

(Thanks Lanova, Kathleen, and Genia!)

Really? Amy Poehler? A headdress, really?

(http://peteryang.com/images/a7/x_amy.jpg)

Amy, you're funny. I like you. But the headdress? It's not irreverent, it's not quirky, it's not funny, and I don't like it. And frankly, it's starting to be a bit played out now. Celebrities in headdresses are taking over the internets. Not. Cool. 

Previous entries for background on the issue:

Ke$ha, the headdress, and the trend that won't go away: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/03/keha-headdress-and-trend-that-wont-go.html

The Strange Case of the Hipster Headdress: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/02/strange-case-of-hipster-headdress.html

(Thanks Adam!)

Ke$ha, the headdress, and a trend that won't go away

I don't watch American Idol. But, this morning I woke up to a flurry of text messages and emails about Ke$ha's performance last night--looks like another pop star decided donning a headdress would be an awesome way to show how "raw" and "counterculture" she was.


Here's the selection (via MTV) with her sporting a headdress and face paint: UPDATE 2/25: MTV took down the link, so here's a youtube version. The headdress comes out at 2:26.

After the jump, some more blogger's thoughts, an Outkast flashback, and analysis.




I'm not the first to post on this today, fellow Native blogger Lisa Charleyboy has a post on Urban Native Girl Stuff here, Racialicious has an open thread going here, and most of the news bulletins about her performance mention Ke$ha donning a "Native American headdress."

The thing that annoys me, besides the obvious, is that the headdress had absolutely nothing to do with the song, the performance, anything. The song is about picking up a guy at a bar, or something, and has such deep and fantastically well written lyrics as:

I dont really care where you live at just turn around boy and let me hit that.
Dont be a little b***h with your chit chat just show me where your d**k's at.

So beautiful, right? The asthetic of the performance was more futuristic/technological, with dancing TV screens, silver, black, electrical chords, the like. Her dress is even metallic silver. So where does a headdress even come into play here?

There has been a lot of outrage from Native outlets, and rightly so, but this isn't a new phenomenon. Anyone remember the 2004 Grammy's? And this performance by Outkast?



That one still makes me mad. Think of how many layers of approval these performances have to go through--executives, publicists, set designers, lighting, performers--and not one person thought these might be offensive? That's so troubling.

Headdresses aren't traditional to my community (though many wanabees would have you thinking otherwise--so many "Cherokee Headdresses" out there. ugh), but when I see them in the mainstream media, it usually is associated with people who deserve deep respect in Indian country; Rick West (former director of NMAI) wore his at the opening of the museum, Joe Medicine Crow wore his when accepting the Presidential Medal of Freedom...I could go on. Lisa Charleyboy pointed out that warbonnets like the one Ke$ha is wearing have true spiritual significance:

The significance of the war bonnet in traditional Native cultures is huge. It is used in ceremonies, and it is only worn by those who are awarded them after many years of effort, and usually only be men. No artist would dare don a kippah or a turban so the same respect should be given to Native peoples and their traditional, ceremonial wear.

It's so true. We come back to it again and again...why is it deemed 'ok' to appropriate Native culture, religion, and spirituality, and not others?

The fact that this "trend" is catching on really bothers me. I was out at the mall in SF today (I'm on spring break!), and spotted the window displays at Juicy Couture. Their mannequins are wearing headdresses. They even had a tie-dyed tipi inside the store! I didn't have my camera, and my cell phone pictures turned out horribly, but I'll try to snap some tomorrow. I keep hoping this will fade out, but unfortunately it seems to be just catching speed.

Earlier Post: The Strange Case of the Hipster Headdress--http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/02/strange-case-of-hipster-headdress.html

Urban Native Girl Stuff: http://www.lisacharleyboy.com/2010/03/kehas-too-blah-se.html

Racialicious: http://www.racialicious.com/2010/03/18/open-thread-kehas-headdress-on-american-idol/

(Thanks Jenny Bean!)

Random Appropriation of the Day!

(Image via http://hipsterpuppies.tumblr.com/)

Today's random appropriation comes from Hipster Puppies, a pretty adorable tumblr feed playing off hipster stereotypes by captioning pictures of dogs.

The above image was posted with this caption: "lola got booted from the kickball team after just showing up every week and drinking"

In the words of tipster MK: "I'm gonna hope the caption about drinking has nothing to do with Native stereotypes. Coincidence?" Let's hope.

Apparently even the hipster puppies are getting in on the tribal trend!

(Thanks MK!)

The Strange Case of the Hipster Headdress

 

(anyone know the source? I love this!) 

I think the graphic above (which I totally want on a shirt) sums it up well, but am I the only one who is baffled by the hipster headdress phenomenon? I've been trying to break it down, thinking back to the hippies of the past--connections to nature, to the mystical, against the mainstream, etc--but those stereotypes just don't seem to fit with today's hipster stereotypes. I'm guessing it's just an iteration of the tribal fashion trends, with a little bit of the desire to be counter culture thrown in there. 

After the jump, several examples from around the internets, and examples of how indie music has hopped on the appropriation train--Juliette Lewis and the Licks and Bat for Lashes are both fans of the hipster headdress. 

 

(image via latfh.com)

Look at this F***ing Hipster (another entertaining blog) has a slideshow entitled "Someone call the Headdress Police" which is a great compilation of the many iterations of the trend, and does a nice job at pointing out the ridiculousness of it all:

http://www.latfh.com/post/247408833/someone-call-the-headdress-police

I wish I could embed the slideshow, it's kinda awesome. 

Hipsterrunoff declared Native American fashion as "big" back in 2008, though doesn't include any headdress pics. But these pants are really nice:

http://www.hipsterrunoff.com/2008/08/native-american-fashion-is-big-in-18k8-2k09.html

Which brings us to the music scene. Two years ago Racialicious's Jessica Yee did a great post examining Juliette Lewis and her band The Licks, and tying it back to Indigenous Feminism. It's definitely worth a read if you have time. Juliette is fond of the "rock and roll warrior" look, which tends to include a headdress and facepaint:

 

 

(images via starpulse.com)

 Jessica ties it back to her feminist point of view:

What I find most interesting though about all this imagery, and in particular Lewis’s choice of dress with her band, is actually coming from my raging feminist point of view. In an attempt to appear strong, raw, and unapologetic, people, and in this case, a woman, feels like she has to appropriate Native culture to a pretty extreme extent in order to do a good job of it.

So I guess that goes back to my question about the reasoning behind the hipster appropriations--are hipsters trying to be strong, raw, and unapologetic? I can see the raw and unapologetic, maybe. But are the skinny guys in skinny jeans really going for "strong"?

Juliette and the Licks aren't the only band, the lead singer of a group (that I had admittedly never heard of) called Bat for Lashes is also big on the headdress:

(images via retroglo.net)

Since many of these posts are from 2008, it's interesting that the hipster headdress and the hipster-Native connection is one that has had a bit of staying power.

Semi-related: are there any self-identified Native hipsters out there? I'd love your thoughts.

UPDATE 4/27/2010: I've had a lot to think about since I wrote this post, so here's a more up-to-date version of my thoughts: But Why Can't I Wear a Hipster Headdress?

Related posts:

Racialicious Post on Juliette and the Licks: http://www.racialicious.com/2008/10/02/indigenous-feminism-and-cultural-appropriation/

Retroglo on Bat for Lashes: http://retroglo.net/headdress-the-newest-accessory-2/