"Sioux Chief" Drain: Honoring Natives in a Bathroom Near You!

(image source)

It's definitely an honor to have the place where dirty, disgusting water drains in rest stop bathrooms to be named after the most revered position in your tribe, right? According to the Sioux Chief Manufacturing Company, that's exactly what they were going for.

Tipster Ann spotted this tribute to the "proud and resolute people" of the Sioux Nation in a skeezy rest stop bathroom somewhere in Indiana. She did a little research and found the website of the company, where they describe the origin of their company's name and logo:

Sioux Chief’s founder, Martin E. “Ed” Ismert Jr., was greatly interested in Western Americana. Ed’s father, Martin Sr., was a collector and Midwest authority of Western and Native American artifacts in the ’30s, ’40s, and ’50s. When the time came to name his new company, it did not take Ed long, as he had learned from his father all about the Sioux Indian Nation. The Sioux Nation were a very proud and resolute people that, while being fierce and competitive, held in highest regard the family, the Earth, and especially Wakan Tanka, the Great Spirit. Ed commissioned his brother Bud, an artist who studied under Thomas Hart Benton, to draw the “Young Determined Sioux Chief” in full ceremonial dress as the logo for his young determined company. Sioux Chief Manufacturing, being named and patterned after such a distinctive people would put forth an image not easily forgotten.

Let's examine this language a bit, shall we? So Ed learned from his father (a white collector and "authority" on Indian stuff) "all about the Sioux Indian Nation". Another great example of how many non-Natives can have extremely limited encounters with Native peoples but then call themselves "experts" and sell themselves as foremost authorities on all things Native. I'm sure he knows all about the Lakota/Dakota. All about them.

Then there's the ubiquitous past tense--The Sioux "were a very proud and resolute people", "held in highest regard", etc. He also manages to throw in a whole bunch 'o stereotypes in there too--The "Spiritual Warrior" syndrome. Competitive and fierce, yet deeply tied to the earth and "The Great Spirit". And hey, Mr. Ismert, the Lakota didn't go anywhere. They're still here.

So then we asks his non-Native brother, with presumably the same limited knowledge as himself, to draw a "Young, Determined, Sioux Chief" for their logo, in ceremonial dress, of course (with no regard to how that might be, you know, special or sacred):

...and we get the stereotypical Plains Indian Warrior. At least they got the regalia semi-right? considering how often this dress is attributed to other tribes for advertising and marketing. Not that it makes it any better.

I also keep coming back to the fact that it's the Sioux Chief company. Chiefs and leaders of tribes are deeply revered positions of power, and to me it just seems so absolutely degrading to have that position of wisdom, trust, and authority placed on a bathroom drain. People are literally (excuse the language) pissing on our culture.

If any Lakota or Dakota tribal members want to weigh in, definitely let me know.

 Sioux Chief Manufacturing Company: http://www.siouxchief.com/Company

(Thanks Ann!)

Random Appropriation of the Day! (Daufuski Korean Oysters)

Chrissy, one of my Twitter followers, came across this can of Korean Oysters while shopping at her local grocery store (I believe in Alabama?). From what I can gather with a quick google search, Dafuskie (with an "e") Island in South Carolina used to be a big oyster producing area. But this website gives us this additional piece of Dafuskie trivia:

Indian pottery found on the island is among the oldest of its kind in North America, dating back more than 9,000 years.  Their history on the island ended in the early 18th century, after a battle with English soldiers in 1715. After the sand ran red with Indian blood, the southern tip of the island was given the moniker Bloody Point, a name it carries to this day.

Horrible.  How would you like to live in "Bloody Point" knowing that is the history of your home? That's a whole post in itself.

Back to the oysters. These are, today, produced in Korea, but I found some images of early ads, from the 1950's:

(image source)

If they are referencing the Daufuskie-Indian connection, they might want to look into traditional regalia of South Carolina, cause I'm about 100% positive they didn't wear plains headdresses. In addition, I don't think the proper way to memorialize slaughtering all of your island's Native inhabitants is to put them on a can of oysters. But that's just my opinion.

(Thanks Chrissy!)

Batman and Superman as Indian Chiefs?

(source)

Holy Headdress Batman! (omg I'm so creative I know).

Reader Brianna sent over this image of Batman, in a headdress, punching what appears to be an Indian (POW!). She didn't know the context, but a little googling this morning led me to this blog, with more images of Batman, plus other superheros, all dressed up in racial drag: (all images courtesy of Everyday is Like Wednesday)

That's the cover of the issue that the first image came from. Then there's Superman:

And Captain Marvel:

and even Rex the Wonder Dog:

Everyday is Like Wednesday offers a plot synopsis of the Batman comic, filling in the gaps to demonstrate just how Batman ended up dressed like a stereotypical Plains Chief. Definitely head over for a read. Here's a screen shot of the comic:

 (click to make it bigger and readable)

The main plot point is that Batman must disguise himself as an Indian in order to fight the bad guy. Awesome?

These were released in the 1950's, so back at the height of Westerns and an American fascination with Cowboys and Indians, so I'm not surprised that the trend bled into the comic book realm. I'd love to see the full comics, I'm really curious to see the full portrayals of the Native people. 

For more: Everyday is like Wednesday: Chief-Man-of-the-Bats

(Thanks Brianna!)

Nudie Neon Indians and the Sexualization of Native Women

Neon Indian is a hipster-indie band that has been gaining some notoriety as of late. They performed on Jimmy Fallon, and have been making the music festival circuit as well. Though the name annoys me, I hadn't actually associated them with any cultural appropriation, since nothing I've read about the band references anything Native. I figured maybe they were talking about the other kind of Indian. Their name actually comes from (if you believe teh blogz) a make-believe band front man Alan Palomo (who is Latino) had in high school

So, even if the name wasn't a direct reference, and the band has avoided Native stereotypes (send me images if you find otherwise), you can't control your fans (Clearly, as we saw with the Blackhawks and Flyers fans last week).

The fans in that picture above crashed the Neon Indian stage at the music festival Bonaroo (more music festivals and headdresses, of course), wearing headdresses, feathers, and pasties on their bare breasts. According to hipster runoff, this is how it went down:

And it got even stranger during a riveting, bulked-up version of “Deadbeat Summer,” when a crew of scantily-clad ladies wearing homemade feather headdresses (two of whom were fully topless with colorfully painted boobs) bounded onto the stage, seemingly by design, and cavorted around aimlessly, jiggling to the wistful musings about sunlit streets and a starlit abyss. Depending on your vantage point, it was either hilarious or pathetic, but Palomo just laughed and shrugged.

Apparently the girls jumped up there on their own, and it wasn't actually part of the set at all.

Here's another image of the girls:

 (image source)

Yes, the headdresses are wrong. But what gets me even more is the topless/feather pasties part. There's a legacy and history there that many people don't know or understand.

Native women have been highly sexualized throughout history and in pop culture. There are any number of examples I can pull from, the "Indian Princess" stereotype is everwhere--think the story of Pocahontas, or Tiger Lily in Peter Pan, or Cher in her "half breed" video, or the land 'o' lakes girl, seriously almost any image of a Native woman that you've seen in popular culture. We're either sexy squaws (the most offensive term out there), wise grandmas, or overweight ogres. But the pervasive "sexy squaw" is the most dangerous, especially when you know the basic facts about sexual violence against Native women:

• 1 in 3 Native women will be raped in their lifetime 
• 70% of sexual violence against Native women is committed by non-Natives

This Amnesty International study details, at great length, the gruesome truth about sexual violence in Indian Country.  Also, recently, Vanguard (a show on current TV) did a special called "Rape on the Reservation". The show is about 45 minutes long, but so powerful, and so heartbreaking. Please watch it if you have time, even the intro is enough to shock you back to reality:

Now can you see why my heart breaks and I feel sick every time I see an image of a naked or scantily clad woman in a headdress? This is not just about cultural appropriation. This is about a serious, scary, and continuing legacy of violence against women in Indian Country. These girls probably thought they were just being "counter-culture" or "edgy," but by perpetuating the stereotypes of Native women as sexual objects, they are aiding and continuing the cycle of violence.

Earlier:

But Why Can't I Wear a Hipster Headdress?

Educating non-Natives at Lightning in a Bottle

The Hipster Headdress Abounds at Coachella

Headdresses and Music Festivals go together like PB and...Racism?

"The Sexiest Rain Dance Ever" 

(Thanks Ben and Virtue for sending me the pics)

Educating non-Natives at Lightning in a Bottle

My friend Ricky (who made this awesome graphic I've posted before) headed out to the Lightning in a Bottle (LIB) music festival a few weeks ago, and was prepared to approach the concert-goers in headdresses and other forms of cultural appropriation in the mindset of an educator. He encountered many headdresses, and more. I'll let him tell the story himself:

I went to Lightning in a Bottle a few weeks ago. As a Native who is considered pretty 'alternative' (ie goes to festivals frequently and likes Electro House music, although I also love Swing Dancing, Break Dancing, and Freestyle MC-ing) I knew that this trip would be wrought with challenges of Fashion Identity, Racial Politics, and overt appropriation of Native American Cultures, Symbols and Practices... It was very difficult to be amongst so many people of the new age belief, and to constantly stay silent so as not to be rude. Speaking out then would be akin to quantifying the Pope as the Anti-Christ in a Catholic church in Boston. That's the kinda heat I was around.

In this journey which i prepare for by sweating, I also needed feathers from my Eagle which I had recently cleaned. I prayed for a whole day on these two feathers so that i would have the A) Strength to continue educating non-native, as i predicted it would be very fatiguing to do so, and B) Patience so that i would not get frustrated by their lack of perspective, respect or recognition of Native Symbols. While I had some good conversations and even had people offer to take off their feathers, i also had people viciously defending their 'right' to expression. Its' a very American concept, this right to act however you please. Its also this kind of thinking that lead to the genocide 100+ million original natives from the America's over 500 years.

I went as an educator of expression that is too often undeserved, and more than not, ignored. By being a Native presence at this kind of festival I attract a lot of attention to my self, especially when i wear my feathers, for the purposes listed above. When I offer cleansing I make sure to be in sober spirit. More then I can say for many of the Plastic Shaman that I saw out there. I was also fasting for about 30 hours and with dancing and constant walking in the mix, I did not need to partake of other medicines to be enlightened. At that point it was pretty full on.

May we have greater recognition amongst Non-Natives so that we are not merely known about, but understood. If you live in America then you benefit from our subjugation, please do not perpetuate the actions of the past, by staying ignorant and blind from our shared History.

I can only imagine the strength it took to remain calm and collected in that environment. Here are the pictures that Ricky sent over of other concert goers:

and here's Ricky (he shaded out his eyes):

The other interesting part about LIB is that they bill themselves to be a progressive, environmental, save-the-rainforest type event. If you go to their website here, and look under the tab that says "environment" you can see more about their mission. This page caught my attention as well: http://lightninginabottle.org/environment/critical-beats/ which includes two images of Indigenous men from the Amazon and information about the "critical beats" organization, which uses indigenous songs, music, stories, and spoken word combined with western artists' music to create new songs that they sell to raise money and awareness on Indigenous issues. Interesting stuff, but I don't know enough about it to formulate a total opinion.

Anyway, my point is that I always find it hard to believe when people who are "aware" and "tuned in" still think it's ok to don a headdress or offer "Native" ceremonies. I'm sure they would use the "honoring" argument, which we know is just as offensive as wearing the headdress itself.

So, thanks to Ricky for the story and images, and I'm so glad he was there to talk to the participants, though I know it must have been exhausting and frustrating. Keep fighting!

Earlier:

But Why Can't I Wear a Hipster Headdress?: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/04/but-why-cant-i-wear-hipster-headdress.html

The Hipster Headdress Abounds at Coachella: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/04/hipster-headdress-abounds-at-coachella.html

Headdresses and Music Festivals go together like PB and...Racism?: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/06/headdresses-and-music-festivals-go.html

Thanks for the severed head, you've proved my point.

Game 4. Philly Flyers vs. Chicago Blackhawks. The Flyers score a goal, and VERSUS tv shows this guy. This guy, holding an impaled, severed, Indian head. On national tv. Close up on his prop:

So disturbing, so graphic, and just what I wanted to wake up to on a Saturday morning. Truly sickening in the literal sense.

This proves it, without a doubt. Native American mascots are demeaning, stereotyping, and harmful to Native people. The Blackhawks logo is often touted as a "good" image--not evil or stupid looking, nothing like chief wahoo or the other blatantly racist images. But "good" image or not (and I still stand that no Indian mascot is a good mascot), clearly this demonstrates the danger when fans are given control over a mascot and image. There is no excuse for this man's actions.

That's one area mascot debates rarely cover--the actions of rival team's fans and how they affect Native people. When an entire arena is shouting things like "Beat the Indians!" "Scalp the Redskins!" "F*@! the Blackhawks!" Can you imagine how it would feel to be a Native person hearing those things?

Even more upsetting about this image is the American history behind beheadings and scalpings of American Indians at the hands of whites. Into the late 1800's, the california government offered bounties of 5 dollars per Indian head brought into city hall. The heads of great Indian leaders were kept as souvenirs by the US military, or strung up in trees or on posts to serve as a warning to other Indians who dare disobey. Scalping, a practice commonly associated with blood-thirsty Indians, was actually more widely used by the European settlers, and bounties were offered for Indian scalps as well. This proclamation from 1775 calls for scalps from Native men, women, and children--offering different rewards for each.

That's why this makes me even more sick to my stomach.

We could also talk about how the TV station decided it was ok to air the image of this man, multiple times, or how the security at the arena let him through with that spear, and what those actions say about our society, or, per usual, draw the comparisons to other groups. Would a tv station air an image of a man carrying around an impaled Black head? Asian? Latino? No.

I've been getting a lot of emails lately about the Chicago Blackhawks, I'm assuming because of all the publicity with the Stanly Cup. A couple of people sent over this image:

Apparently the Chicago Tribune puts feathers on the homepage every time the team has a game. The feathers are pulled from the Blackhawks logo itself:

There have also been a few editorials circulating about the logo, and if it's time for a change. This one, from the Star, is pretty spot on. I talked a little bit about the danger of mascots and the psychological implications for Native students in this post about Tommy Tomahawk at Stilwell HS in OK. I recommend a read of Stephanie Fryburg's work I link to in that post.

And of course, the offensive and hurtful behavior isn't just limited to the fans of the other team. Check these guys out:

 (image source)

I guess even die-hard hockey fans can fall under the anti-hipster headdress manifesto.

So, overall, I guess I can--in a twisted and sick way--thank that Flyers fan. Anytime anyone says there is no harm in Indian mascots, I'm sending them that picture.


Offensive Logo has got to go: http://www.thestar.com/sports/hockey/nhl/article/815709--cox-offensive-blackhawks-logo-has-got-to-go

Flyers Fan celebrates with Impaled Head: http://sports.yahoo.com/nhl/blog/puck_daddy/post/Flyers-fan-celebrates-goal-with-impaled-Indian-h?urn=nhl,245889

Original pictures of the fan are from The Starter Wife: http://blackandgoldtchotchkes.com/

Earlier:

Meet Stilwell HS's new Mascot: Tommy Tomahawk- http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/01/stilwell-high-schools-new-mascot.html

Tommy Tomahawk Update: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/01/tommy-tomahawk-update-school-board.html

Headdresses and Music Festivals Go Together Like PB and...Racism?

I don't know what it is about outdoor music festivals that seems to invite headdress-wearing these days, but we saw it at Coachella, and Ke$ha at The Bamboozle, and now at Sasquatch! in Washington over memorial day weekend. The Seattle Weekly Blog posted about the phenomenon (more photos on the site), and questioned the reasoning behind the Native-inspired garb:

We are, after all, in an area of the country rich with Native American heritage, and the outfits du jour at Sasquatch! this year appears to be anything related to the kind of American Indian image painted by white oppressors of Native Americans. I understand we still live in the world of Cleveland Indians and Washington Redskins, but this seems like a step backward, right?

Among the responses I got when I asked those dressed up what the deal was:

"It's what we're about." "Why not?" "Chief Seattle, baby! Chief Seattle!"

I don't know if it's a step backward as much as bringing to light something that never went away. These incidences have been happening for years-decades-centuries, but it wasn't considered to be the ultimate in trendy or counter culture until more recently. To me, the responses when directly questioned show the absolute ignorance of the issues with wearing a headdress. Which is why my friend Ricky is amazing and made this to wear to a music festival recently (not sure if it was Sasquatch! or not):

(click to make it big)

His statements confront head-on most of the issues these people probably never even thought about when they stapled chicken feathers to tie-dye fabric. I am, of course, referring to these people:

Thanks for the stereotypical war whoop face, because it was unclear you were being insensitive solely by your mess of a headdress. 

In addition to Sasquatch!, two weeks ago, UCSD held their annual "Sun God" festival on campus, a big outdoor concert much like the ones above (bit smaller scale, but you get it). The Native American Student Association at UCSD released a statement regarding the number of students who decided to dress up in headdresses/warpaint/etc. Their response is beautifully written, and I recommend a full read here.

On Friday May 14, 2010 at UCSD’s annual Sungod Festival, UCSD students dressed in mock Native American attire, including, but not limited to, painted faces, feathers, and headdresses. This act is disrespectful and degrading to the traditions and culture of Natives as the attire is sacred to many Native American tribes. Acts like this perpetuate negative stereotypes of Native American culture, breeding the insensitivity and misunderstanding that is already plaguing our university...As students at UCSD we should not have to see our cultures mocked and ridiculed during a student sponsored event taking place at our university.

Native American students were forced to witness these acts of disrespect and see their peers mocking and degrading what is considered to be sacred attire in many of the Native American cultures. Though the university was awakened to issues of diversity and campus climate at UCSD in the past few months, based on these numerous incidents of disrespect it is apparent that the university needs to take more action to promote diversity and cultural awareness among the UCSD community (particularly with regard to the Native American community with whom the university has had a long history of discontent).

They go on to note that there the presence of Native students on campus is ever-diminishing (which is upsetting considering that San Diego County is home to 13 Indian Reservations). The "numerous incidents of disrespect" are referring to the "Compton Cookout" party hosted by UCSD students, where guests were invited to dress up like urban/poor/black stereotypes. Clearly UCSD has some major work to do.

Especially when this was the response in the school newspaper, entitled "When Students Cry Cookout" by Alyssa Bereznak:

"...as a Sun God celebrator who peppered her hair with gold feathers the day of, I’d argue many costumed students never intended to emulate traditional American-Indian dress, but rather the aesthetic of the statue itself. The festival’s winged inspiration, after all, was created by artist Nikki St. Phalle’s indigenous handbrush. Even with all artistic classification aside, it’s still a bird splashed in primary colors — perfectly crowned with a row of gold feathers."

This is the statue that she's referring to, used in many UCSD publications, and where the name of the festival comes from:

So, ok, maybe YOU were inspired by the feathers on this statue, but what about the war-paint wearing, Indian headdress sporters?

But even if we’re talking about those who did aim to sport some Sioux-inspired gear because they thought it looked cool, it’s unclear why that would be classified as mockery. If students had decked themselves in moccasins and paint and skipped around howling a sarcastic war cry, I’d say we had another Cookout on our hands. But, seeing as they were simply borrowing from the culture’s style because they think it’s awesome, it seems like more of a case of flattery in the form of imitation. America is a melting pot of heritage and tradition; many a white boy has donned a kurta to demonstrate respect for the Indian culture, or a toga for the Greeks. While American-Indians have faced especially violent hardship in the U.S. — which shouldn’t be downplayed — that doesn’t take away a collective right to appreciate their art and culture.

...and there it is. The "appreciation" and "honoring" argument. I've said it before and I'll say it again, there is absolutely no way a drunk guy/girl in a headdress and war paint is honoring, respecting, or showing appreciation for my culture or my ancestors. not. at. all. And a toga is not the same thing as a ceremonial warbonnet. Seriously?

She goes on to say that the Native students shouldn't "cry cookout" and they should "choose their battles." The whole exchange makes me so angry. I just can't understand the level of ignorance that goes into composing an article such as Alyssa's. If someone tells you, in a public forum, that what you're doing is offensive to them and their culture, that takes some major privilege-laden huevos to defend your actions.

To illustrate my point, a quick story: I had a hipster-y green and yellow keffiyeh that I bought in the Haight in SF without understanding any of the background or implications of my "scarf." The SECOND someone clued me in, I ripped it off, apologized profusely, never wore it again. I also continue to spread the word and educate others. The level of shame and embarrassment I felt in that one quick moment was enough to change my actions permanently. That's (one of many reasons) why I simply cannot understand people who defend their headdress wearing. Don't you have some level basic level of compassion and understanding?

For all the other reasons: But Why Can't I Wear a Hipster Headdress?


Seattle Weekly Blog: http://blogs.seattleweekly.com/reverb/2010/05/sasquatch_sunday_anyone_else_a.php

NASA statement on Sun God:
http://ssc.clickrally.com/nasa-statement-regarding-native-american-cultural-appropriation-at-sungod/809/

UCSD guardian student response to NASA:
http://www.ucsdguardian.org/opinion/when-students-cry-‘cookout’/

(Thanks Scott, Rob, Ricky, and anyone else who sent me the UCSD article!)

Ivy League Graduation Appropriation

Sunday was "Class Day" at an Ivy League university, and I sat with 5 of my family members, watching my little sister graduate. Class Day tradition at this school dictates students wear "funny hats" along with their graduation robes (the traditional mortar boards are saved for commencement the next day). As I waited for my sister to enter through the gates (she was wearing a flower wreath), my dad grabbed my arm and said "AJ, look at the jumbotron."

Yep, a student decided it would be a great idea if his "funny hat" was a full on warbonnet. Then, a few seconds later, this girl walked by:

(I apologize for the photo quality, if anyone who was there has better photos, send em over)

I had to seriously pick my jaw up off the floor. I mean, imagine--dragon hat, football helmet, captain's hat, glittery baseball cap...warbonnet?! I felt completely disrespected and embarrassed.

To these graduating students' credit, I will point out that out of 1,300 graduates, there were only two headdresses that we saw. Considering how "trendy" the headdress look is right now, and the fact that they were told to wear "crazy hats", I'm actually surprised there weren't more. But I would still argue that two is too many.

Especially when another student who was at the ceremony told me that one of the Native graduates asked a girl in a headdress to please remove it because it was embarrassing him in front of his family. She refused.

There are many issues with the students wearing the warbonnets, which I've discussed when Ke$ha first wore one on MTV, and again at The Bamboozle, the headdresses at Coachella, and at Bay to Breakers. And for the manifesto, as always, But why can't I wear a hipster headdress?

This is also the perfect illustration of how Natives are placed in a "fantasy" category, along with wizards, magical creatures, and other forms of "dress up" costumes. Indians aren't "real". They are imaginary people, perfect for playing pretend--they can't possibly be contemporary people sitting a few rows behind you at a graduation ceremony.

This particular school has a very small, but strong, Native community with only a handful of graduating students. What an additional slap in the face to my sister and her fellow Native students to see this on a day that was supposed to be celebrating their achievements. To already be in an environment where you feel invisible and marginalized, and to see someone outright disrespecting your culture? Upsetting, to say the least.

And, as an aside, we went to a celebratory graduation dinner at a well-known seafood restaurant about 15 minutes away from campus, and I was greeted by this:

Our restaurant? "Lenny's Indian Head Inn". Located in a town called "Indian Neck". It just doesn't stop, does it?

(Thanks Dad, MPK, and Kia!)

PS--Can I take a minute to say how proud of my sister I am? She worked her butt off for the last four years to get her degree, and I know it was not easy. She studied Art History, and did her senior thesis on Edward Curtis photography--looking at the issues with his philosophies on Indians and his methodologies, but also how they have begun to inspire contemporary Native photographers to reclaim the images.  She's got an awesome internship for the summer working with the Native collections at a local museum in Boston, and coordinating tours for a visiting Native youth summer program. This girl is awesome and is doing our family proud. Congrats Sees! :)

Not Again, Ke$ha.

Our favorite warbonnet-wearing-hot-mess of a musician sported another headdress at The Bamboozle (a big  music festival). The photographer calls her get up a "psuedo-patriotic costume of a feather headdress, aviator sunglasses, and the American flag". Right.

Plenty more pictures at the photog's site: http://ishootshows.com/2010/05/21/photos-kesha-the-bamboozle/

A couple of tipsters had sent over Ke$ha's new video for "Your Love is My Drug", a song which boasts the lyric "Do I make your heart beat like a native drum (an 808 drum--I stand corrected!)?", and this seems like an appropriate time to share it:

(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QR_qa3Ohwls)

In the video she's running around in the desert, and sports blue warpaint, a heavy dose of "Native" jewelry (including turquoise, silver, and bone), and feathers:

She even is sitting atop an elephant wearing a feather headdress for a few shots:

and then later in the video she goes into psychedelic neon painted aboriginal mode (same look she debuted on SNL a few weeks back), complete with a boa constrictor ala Britney Spears:

We've discussed it before with her American Idol performance. Girl, get your act together. Cultural appropriation isn't cool. 

Earlier: Ke$ha, the headdress, and the trend that won't go away: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/03/keha-headdress-and-trend-that-wont-go.html

But Why Can't I Wear a Hipster Headdress?: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/04/but-why-cant-i-wear-hipster-headdress.html

(Thanks Crystal!)

"The sexiest rain dance ever": Cyanide and Happiness cartoon

It took me a minute to even get the joke in this cartoon. Let's break it down:

We all know all Indians do rain dances, right? (riiiight)

And high roller strip club patrons "make it rain" by throwing money up in the air so it falls down like rain on the stripper. 

Therefore, it's funny, get it? 

When they dance, it's making it rain (cause they're Native), but instead of rain, it's money (cause they're a stripper)! 

ZOMG so funny. 

And all the stereotypes managed to be jam packed in one little cartoon (caution: sarcasm ahead):

• The lovely warbonnet. since we all know ALL Natives wear those (especially the women, duh)  

• The rain dance.  I mean, at least for me anyway, I can't even bust a move outside without running the risk of starting a thunderstorm! It's a real problem. No outdoor wedding for me. 

• The tomahawk. Cause we know Natives are war-like people that like to scalp teh whitez (watch me as I war whoop! Awooo!) 

• The casinos. Cause we ALL are super rich and make lots and lots of untaxed money! And we steal it all from you!

And on a serious note (/sarcasm):

• The bikini and stripper theme generally, cause Native women haven't been sexualized enough throughout history. Makes me so mad. 

Don't you dare get on my case about "it's a comic, it's just a joke, it's satire"--it's not. Images like these are what create the false stereotypes to which Native people are expected to ascribe. Because if all of the world thinks that Indians wear headdresses, carry tomahawks, do rain dances, or own casinos; it erases our current existence as a diverse group of contemporary people living contemporary lives and trivializes the continued struggles of Native peoples. Just because a tribe has a casino doesn't mean everything is all better after 500+ years of mistreatment and historical trauma.

And if anyone is still confused about "making it rain," the first time I remember hearing the term in pop culture was this song from Fat Joe and Lil Wayne (I put the clean version, but there's still lots shots of strippers, so perhaps NSFW? I mean, unless you work somewhere where watching music videos of bikini clad girls on stripper poles is accepted viewing...):

(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0MBUpLkd4w)

The original cartoon: http://www.explosm.net/comics/2048/

UPDATE: For information on the "satire defense" see this piece from Rob Schmidt over at Blue Corn Comics: http://newspaperrock.bluecorncomics.com/2010/05/okay-to-stereotype-in-satires.html

(Thanks Leah and Yazzie!) 

The Jezebel Fashion Post that keeps on giving

 (Jen Mussari's now iconic image :) )

I've come across some awesome blog posts in response to the Jezebel piece (found here) on Native fashion that Lisa at Sociological Images pulled together with images from this blog. The comment thread on the piece was really interesting, with people debating what should be deemed "ok" what is "offensive" and some just telling us all to STFU. I thought I would share a couple of the responses here. (If anyone knows of any others, please let me know)

Juila at a l'allure garçonnière posted a great response entitled "The Critical Fashion Lover's (basic) Guide to Cultural Appropriation" and it's definitely worth a read. I'm tempted to quote the entire thing. It's beautifully written and insightful. She says:

" I have heard a lot of arguments that there are way more important things we could be debating instead of cultural appropriation; that native people themselves don't give a shit if a severely intoxicated white hipster decides to tattoo pocahontas on his leg or if some magazine decides their next nude photoshoot should feature blonde women wearing headdresses. who knows! maybe the jingle dress will be the next hot thing in haute couture, but it doesn't impact the quality of life of the people who make, wear and perform in those dresses.

my response to this is clear and simple; i don't think the issue of institutional racism and discrimination can be completely divorced from the question of cultural appropration. they feed into one another. one would not exist (at least not in the same way) without the other. if we lived in a culture that acknowledged the fact that most of us live on stolen land in north america and that recognized native people as complex, diverse, intelligent people without romanticizing or glamourizing them, i'd like to think that it would put an end to these sorts of reductive stereotypes popping up in fashion, film, music scenes. reducing an entire culture to a simple "inspiration" for your outfit, art project, fashion collection, or photoshoot is disrespectful and unhelpful, especially when we look at the bigger picture."

 And later she addresses what many of the Jezebel commenters were struggling with--what is ok to wear and what isn't?

the biggest problem with the concept of cultural appropriation, in my opinion, is that it doesn't set out any explicit black and white rules for people to follow. as you can see based on the comments on jezebel, people are genuinely confused as to what the "right thing" to do in these situations are, and there's nothing wrong with that. you can't get answers if you aren't asking questions. my advice in these situations is largely about context, intention, and education.

She was able to put into words many of the issues I was struggling with after reading the comment chain. great stuff.

Another post came from Molly at the University of Michigan Arts Ink blog, entitled "The Hipster Headdress: A Fashion Faux Pas." The post itself is great, but I really appreciated the back-and-forth she posted in the comments between her and some facebook friends. It's really enlightening and says a lot:

Friend 3: …great opinionated synopsis molly, really like your writing style and i agree with the feathered headdress as a stupid hipster clique. Although to be honest, I sometimes wear a feather in my hair (completely in humble respect to the Native Americans)…a modest little decorative item once in awhile.

Molly: I think moccasins are items of comfort – though I realize there are “designer moccasins” out there selling for hundreds of dollars. You don’t put on a headdress because you lost your baseball cap. They’re not practical or comfortable. Plus, you can wear moccasins and walk down the street, go to a party, and nobody would really notice. I don’t know why people wear headdresses around, but whether or not it’s their intention – they get attention. I realize throwing in that P.S. is rather hypocritical regardless, but perhaps the note’d make more sense taking into account that Native Americans, at powwows, posts, what have you, might sell moccasins or dream catchers or other crafts – but you never see them selling headdresses (unless for ceremonial purposes, I suppose, but I’ve never seen a headdress for sale personally, at least). I found a hawk feather and wore it around for a little while. I don’t think single feathers are offensive, though I know that’s again flirting with contradiction. It’s like the difference between wearing some green eyeshadow or painting your entire body green. Also, I’m not insinuating that anyone who enjoys wearing headdresses occasionally is absolutely void of morals. I’m just not a fan.

Thanks to both of you for keeping the conversation going, I'm just so glad these issues are being discussed in the blog-o-sphere after remaining off the map for so long. Keep up the good work!



Julia's post: http://alagarconniere.blogspot.com/2010/04/critical-fashion-lovers-basic-guide-to.html

Molly's post: http://www3.arts.umich.edu/ink/2010/04/14/the-hipster-headdress-a-fashion-faux-pas/

The original Jezebel post: http://jezebel.com/5516362/feathers-and-fashion-native-american-is-in-style

Tribal Fashion Roundup!

(http://www.etsy.com/shop/coyotepheonix)

I've gotten a few tips this week about more tribal fashion appropriations, so I thought I would compile a few of them into a single post, because let's be honest, I'm a little lazy this week.

I found the image above thanks to Lanova posting my hipster headdress piece on a blog that "loved" this headdress (thanks girl!). It's from Coyote Pheonix's Etsy shop, and the description reads:

Great piece for burningman or other festivals. Looks great as a decoration piece hanging on the wall as well. Ties at the base of the neck like a headband with leather strap.

Also, one of the tags on the headdress is "shaman". Ok, appropriations aside, are there actually people out there who see this, swoon, and say "I must have this! my life is not complete until I have a dead coyote to wear on my head!". But, I guess, considering 14% of this fine nation thinks President Obama is, in fact, the Antichrist, I wouldn't be surprised that such people exist (related? not at all. but I just read these poll results, so...).

This one comes from my sister's fabulous suitemate Kathleen:

Belt and keychains from Jack Spade in Soho, website here. These seem pretty out of place with the whole Jack Spade asthetic, to me anyway. They're known for their preppy men's bags and accessories, with military inspirations and "timeless" pieces. Not usually what we'd associate with the Native trends. interesting.

Finally, a picture of a page from Lucky Magazine via my friend Genia (click to make it bigger):

The mocassins front and center are the Nicole Richie mocs I posted earlier, and there's a pendleton bag on the left. I love how Native American trends are "global"--um, you can't get more American than the styles of the original peoples in the US.

Just a few samples of many...I think I could start an entire blog of just Native Appropriations in fashion. sigh. 

Coyote headdress post: http://teenangster.net/2010/03/coyote-phoenix/

Earlier posts:
Tribal Fashion, the newest trend?: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/01/tribal-fashion-newest-trend.html

Nicole Richie's baby mocs: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/02/nicole-richies-baby-mocs.html

The Strange Case of the Hipster Headdress: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/02/strange-case-of-hipster-headdress.html

(Thanks Lanova, Kathleen, and Genia!)

Really? Amy Poehler? A headdress, really?

(http://peteryang.com/images/a7/x_amy.jpg)

Amy, you're funny. I like you. But the headdress? It's not irreverent, it's not quirky, it's not funny, and I don't like it. And frankly, it's starting to be a bit played out now. Celebrities in headdresses are taking over the internets. Not. Cool. 

Previous entries for background on the issue:

Ke$ha, the headdress, and the trend that won't go away: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/03/keha-headdress-and-trend-that-wont-go.html

The Strange Case of the Hipster Headdress: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/02/strange-case-of-hipster-headdress.html

(Thanks Adam!)

Ke$ha, the headdress, and a trend that won't go away

I don't watch American Idol. But, this morning I woke up to a flurry of text messages and emails about Ke$ha's performance last night--looks like another pop star decided donning a headdress would be an awesome way to show how "raw" and "counterculture" she was.


Here's the selection (via MTV) with her sporting a headdress and face paint: UPDATE 2/25: MTV took down the link, so here's a youtube version. The headdress comes out at 2:26.

After the jump, some more blogger's thoughts, an Outkast flashback, and analysis.




I'm not the first to post on this today, fellow Native blogger Lisa Charleyboy has a post on Urban Native Girl Stuff here, Racialicious has an open thread going here, and most of the news bulletins about her performance mention Ke$ha donning a "Native American headdress."

The thing that annoys me, besides the obvious, is that the headdress had absolutely nothing to do with the song, the performance, anything. The song is about picking up a guy at a bar, or something, and has such deep and fantastically well written lyrics as:

I dont really care where you live at just turn around boy and let me hit that.
Dont be a little b***h with your chit chat just show me where your d**k's at.

So beautiful, right? The asthetic of the performance was more futuristic/technological, with dancing TV screens, silver, black, electrical chords, the like. Her dress is even metallic silver. So where does a headdress even come into play here?

There has been a lot of outrage from Native outlets, and rightly so, but this isn't a new phenomenon. Anyone remember the 2004 Grammy's? And this performance by Outkast?



That one still makes me mad. Think of how many layers of approval these performances have to go through--executives, publicists, set designers, lighting, performers--and not one person thought these might be offensive? That's so troubling.

Headdresses aren't traditional to my community (though many wanabees would have you thinking otherwise--so many "Cherokee Headdresses" out there. ugh), but when I see them in the mainstream media, it usually is associated with people who deserve deep respect in Indian country; Rick West (former director of NMAI) wore his at the opening of the museum, Joe Medicine Crow wore his when accepting the Presidential Medal of Freedom...I could go on. Lisa Charleyboy pointed out that warbonnets like the one Ke$ha is wearing have true spiritual significance:

The significance of the war bonnet in traditional Native cultures is huge. It is used in ceremonies, and it is only worn by those who are awarded them after many years of effort, and usually only be men. No artist would dare don a kippah or a turban so the same respect should be given to Native peoples and their traditional, ceremonial wear.

It's so true. We come back to it again and again...why is it deemed 'ok' to appropriate Native culture, religion, and spirituality, and not others?

The fact that this "trend" is catching on really bothers me. I was out at the mall in SF today (I'm on spring break!), and spotted the window displays at Juicy Couture. Their mannequins are wearing headdresses. They even had a tie-dyed tipi inside the store! I didn't have my camera, and my cell phone pictures turned out horribly, but I'll try to snap some tomorrow. I keep hoping this will fade out, but unfortunately it seems to be just catching speed.

Earlier Post: The Strange Case of the Hipster Headdress--http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/02/strange-case-of-hipster-headdress.html

Urban Native Girl Stuff: http://www.lisacharleyboy.com/2010/03/kehas-too-blah-se.html

Racialicious: http://www.racialicious.com/2010/03/18/open-thread-kehas-headdress-on-american-idol/

(Thanks Jenny Bean!)

Random Appropriation of the Day!

(Image via http://hipsterpuppies.tumblr.com/)

Today's random appropriation comes from Hipster Puppies, a pretty adorable tumblr feed playing off hipster stereotypes by captioning pictures of dogs.

The above image was posted with this caption: "lola got booted from the kickball team after just showing up every week and drinking"

In the words of tipster MK: "I'm gonna hope the caption about drinking has nothing to do with Native stereotypes. Coincidence?" Let's hope.

Apparently even the hipster puppies are getting in on the tribal trend!

(Thanks MK!)

The Strange Case of the Hipster Headdress

 

(anyone know the source? I love this!) 

I think the graphic above (which I totally want on a shirt) sums it up well, but am I the only one who is baffled by the hipster headdress phenomenon? I've been trying to break it down, thinking back to the hippies of the past--connections to nature, to the mystical, against the mainstream, etc--but those stereotypes just don't seem to fit with today's hipster stereotypes. I'm guessing it's just an iteration of the tribal fashion trends, with a little bit of the desire to be counter culture thrown in there. 

After the jump, several examples from around the internets, and examples of how indie music has hopped on the appropriation train--Juliette Lewis and the Licks and Bat for Lashes are both fans of the hipster headdress. 

 

(image via latfh.com)

Look at this F***ing Hipster (another entertaining blog) has a slideshow entitled "Someone call the Headdress Police" which is a great compilation of the many iterations of the trend, and does a nice job at pointing out the ridiculousness of it all:

http://www.latfh.com/post/247408833/someone-call-the-headdress-police

I wish I could embed the slideshow, it's kinda awesome. 

Hipsterrunoff declared Native American fashion as "big" back in 2008, though doesn't include any headdress pics. But these pants are really nice:

http://www.hipsterrunoff.com/2008/08/native-american-fashion-is-big-in-18k8-2k09.html

Which brings us to the music scene. Two years ago Racialicious's Jessica Yee did a great post examining Juliette Lewis and her band The Licks, and tying it back to Indigenous Feminism. It's definitely worth a read if you have time. Juliette is fond of the "rock and roll warrior" look, which tends to include a headdress and facepaint:

 

 

(images via starpulse.com)

 Jessica ties it back to her feminist point of view:

What I find most interesting though about all this imagery, and in particular Lewis’s choice of dress with her band, is actually coming from my raging feminist point of view. In an attempt to appear strong, raw, and unapologetic, people, and in this case, a woman, feels like she has to appropriate Native culture to a pretty extreme extent in order to do a good job of it.

So I guess that goes back to my question about the reasoning behind the hipster appropriations--are hipsters trying to be strong, raw, and unapologetic? I can see the raw and unapologetic, maybe. But are the skinny guys in skinny jeans really going for "strong"?

Juliette and the Licks aren't the only band, the lead singer of a group (that I had admittedly never heard of) called Bat for Lashes is also big on the headdress:

(images via retroglo.net)

Since many of these posts are from 2008, it's interesting that the hipster headdress and the hipster-Native connection is one that has had a bit of staying power.

Semi-related: are there any self-identified Native hipsters out there? I'd love your thoughts.

UPDATE 4/27/2010: I've had a lot to think about since I wrote this post, so here's a more up-to-date version of my thoughts: But Why Can't I Wear a Hipster Headdress?

Related posts:

Racialicious Post on Juliette and the Licks: http://www.racialicious.com/2008/10/02/indigenous-feminism-and-cultural-appropriation/

Retroglo on Bat for Lashes: http://retroglo.net/headdress-the-newest-accessory-2/