Showing posts with label "tribal". Show all posts
Showing posts with label "tribal". Show all posts

Friday, August 27, 2010

"Navajo" Fashion Spread in Seventeen

(via my culture is not a trend, click for bigger version)

Cultural appropriation in fashion has now gone seriously mainstream. The favorite read of tweens and teens everywhere, Seventeen Magazine, featured this "Navajo" fall fashion spread in their August issue. On many levels, I find this even more offensive than having a generic "tribal fashion" spread. I know I always point out that those spreads lump a million different Native tribes, images, and traditions into one catch-all, otherizing, "tribal" idea--and at least this one listed a tribe, right? Yeah, not so much. 


They still rely on generalized Native stereotypes, but this time are referring to a specific culture. This points to the fact that in the collective American consciousness, all tribes are interchangeable. Navajo, Ojibwe, Kootenai, take your pick. They're all the same! For instance, dream catchers: definitely not Navajo. Would I still be upset if they had paid attention and made taken inspiration from actual Navajo culture? Like if they had a white model dressed up in a rug dress? Of course. But hopefully you see my point.

My friend Marlon did a little research, and found out that in January 1973 Seventeen actually did a cover story entitled: "Special Report: Today's Young Navajos". I love the cover image (below) for many reasons, but mainly because they didn't have her pose in traditional clothes or try and have her conform to a more stereotypical image. She looks like she's about to laugh, just hanging out with her friends. Well done. I can't find the article, so I have no idea if the accompanying story was a shining example or a cringe-inducing piece, but it's still pretty interesting to examine the cover alone: 
 

As I was pulling together this post, I wanted a shocking, over-the-top example to illustrate how these fashion spreads make me feel every time I encounter them in magazines or on other fashion blogs...so I turned to polyvore and MS Paint, and made this:

UPDATE 8/28: After sleeping on it, I took it down. What was here was a "fashion" spread made up of various Africa/Urban/other Black stereotype "inspirations". It didn't illustrate my point, and any point it did make was at the expense of another marginalized group with not nearly enough context or description given. I was going for a visceral reaction, but in a blogging world where most page views are a matter of seconds, it's definitely not enough to throw that up there alone. I also want you to focus on the juxtaposition of the two Seventeen images rather than my misguided attempts at making a point. Apologies for my initial transgressions, and in the words of Kanye West's prolific Twitter: IT'S A PROCESS.  Thanks for bearing with me.  

I bet every fashion blogger making an Native-inspired version relies on the same tatic--pulling together complete stereotypes of what they think of when they hear "Native American". We are so much more than that--but to the readers of the August issue of Seventeen and the fashion blogosphere, we are simply feathers, dream catchers, headdresses, warpaint, moccasins, and beads. Nothing more. 



(Thanks Lauren and Marlon!)


Thursday, June 3, 2010

The Ultimate Tribal Fashion Roundup (June 2010 version)



It's been a while since my last tribal fashion roundup back in March, and even longer since I first questioned the emergence of Native themes in fashion back in January. The trends don't seem to be slowing down, and if the prevalence of the hipster headdress is any indication, they might be sticking around for even longer. So there may be an Ultimate Tribal Fashion Roundup July, and August, and September...we'll have to wait and see.

Just to get it out of the way early in the post, or in case you need a refresher, here's why all this is not cool: But Why Can't I Wear a Hipster Headdress?  The Last point is particularly relevant here, so I'll repost:

Well then, Miss Cultural Appropriation Police, what CAN I wear?
  • If you choose to wear something Native, buy it from a Native. There are federal laws that protect Native artists and craftspeople who make genuine jewelry, art, etc. (see info here about The Indian Arts and Crafts Act). Anything you buy should have a label that says "Indian made" or "Native made". Talk to the artist. Find out where they're from. Be diligent. Don't go out in a full "costume". It's ok to have on some beaded earrings or a turquoise ring, but don't march down the street wearing a feather, with loaded on jewelry, and a ribbon shirt. Ask yourself: if you ran into a Native person, would you feel embarrassed or feel the need to justify yourself? As commenter Bree pointed out, it's ok to own a shirt with kimono sleeves, but you wouldn't go out wearing full kabuki makeup to a bar. Just take a minute to question your sartorial choices before you go out.  
These images are gathered from all walks of fashion and the far corners of the internets. Beneath each photo I've put the source and any other pertinent information. Most of the links have many more photos, but I just picked one or two for you to get the gist of it, so click through for more. Ready? Here we go...





DIY headdress from Bleach Black...it's still not ok even if you make it yourself. sorry. 



American Apparel Look Book

"Dead Man" inspired shoot
(That's that movie with Johnny Depp, right? so they're not calling Natives dead?)

It's invaded accessories too:


(And I had posted this other Hermes Scarf earlier)


Spool 72., which I've also posted about earlier, has even more bags made out of "vintage Native American rugs" on their site now










Kitson e-mail newsletter--Buyers Picks: Tribal Accessories


Window displays at Juicy Couture Manhattan (they had the same ones in SF too)

Headdress T-shirt at Blush in Manhattan

Urban Outfitters "Obey Navajo" Shirt

There are so many more, but hopefully this gives a good overview of some of the stuff out there. I'll try and do some of these roundups a little more often throughout the summer, and as always, continue to send things to me as you see them. 

I've realized this post is sadly devoid of snarky commentary! I'll make up for it in the next one, promise. 

(Thanks to Lici, Tasha, Jesse, Natalie, Katie, Sarah, Mollie, Tanis, Consuelo, Lisa, and anyone else I missed!) 

Thursday, March 25, 2010

Tribal Fashion Roundup!


I've gotten a few tips this week about more tribal fashion appropriations, so I thought I would compile a few of them into a single post, because let's be honest, I'm a little lazy this week.

I found the image above thanks to Lanova posting my hipster headdress piece on a blog that "loved" this headdress (thanks girl!). It's from Coyote Pheonix's Etsy shop, and the description reads:
Great piece for burningman or other festivals. Looks great as a decoration piece hanging on the wall as well. Ties at the base of the neck like a headband with leather strap.
Also, one of the tags on the headdress is "shaman". Ok, appropriations aside, are there actually people out there who see this, swoon, and say "I must have this! my life is not complete until I have a dead coyote to wear on my head!". But, I guess, considering 14% of this fine nation thinks President Obama is, in fact, the Antichrist, I wouldn't be surprised that such people exist (related? not at all. but I just read these poll results, so...).

This one comes from my sister's fabulous suitemate Kathleen:


Belt and keychains from Jack Spade in Soho, website here. These seem pretty out of place with the whole Jack Spade asthetic, to me anyway. They're known for their preppy men's bags and accessories, with military inspirations and "timeless" pieces. Not usually what we'd associate with the Native trends. interesting.

Finally, a picture of a page from Lucky Magazine via my friend Genia (click to make it bigger):


The mocassins front and center are the Nicole Richie mocs I posted earlier, and there's a pendleton bag on the left. I love how Native American trends are "global"--um, you can't get more American than the styles of the original peoples in the US.

Just a few samples of many...I think I could start an entire blog of just Native Appropriations in fashion. sigh. 

Coyote headdress post: http://teenangster.net/2010/03/coyote-phoenix/

Earlier posts:
Tribal Fashion, the newest trend?: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/01/tribal-fashion-newest-trend.html

Nicole Richie's baby mocs: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/02/nicole-richies-baby-mocs.html

The Strange Case of the Hipster Headdress: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/02/strange-case-of-hipster-headdress.html


(Thanks Lanova, Kathleen, and Genia!)

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Eté Indien: French Glamour gets in on the tribal fashion trends

Fashion Foiegras posted a first look at French Glamour's new spread on American Indian fashion trends, with the caption: "American Indian is back in style! Rock the look with a first glimpse from French Glamour." But my first question: did we ever go out of style? ;)

A lot of the Navajo-style jewelry is gorgeous, but (even with my limited french skills) it doesn't look like they're Native made. sad.

After the jump, more images from the shoot. (all taken from www.fashionfoiegras.com)











(Thanks to my fashionista friend Alicia!)


Monday, March 1, 2010

Spool No. 72's Coyote Navajo Rug Clutch


Another fashion appropriation sent by my sister, this one from the clothing website Spool No. 72. From perusing their website, they seem to be along the lines of Anthropologie, bohemian/vintage chic with maybe a little more "ethnic" flair thrown in there. The clutch description reads:

An exclusive for Spool No. 72. Made from a vintage Navajo rug each of our hand crafted clutches are one of a kind. The Coyote is truly a piece of art and is crafted from a native wool blend rug. Substantial in size the Coyote is adorned in breaided elk leather and a vintage horse blanket pin. 
and then, the line below:

Native hand crafted in the US
So does that mean the rug is Native made? or the whole thing is made by a Native person? There isn't any other information on the site to point one way or the other. I also happened to notice that their logo has an arrow through it :

 

And, when you click on the homepage of the company, the header reads "Spool No. 72: Rustic Native Inspired Women's clothing," but there is no further mention in the body of the page, just on the little blue bar above the browser window.

So I did some clicking, and I found their blog here. Along the right side is an section labeled "Native Inspirations" where I found even more bags:

(more after the jump plus an article I found about the boutique)








Interestingly, none of the other bags say "Native hand crafted in America." They do all mention that they are made from "vintage Indian rugs", however.

On the blog there was a link to a NW source article about the company. The article, which can be found here, is entitled "Try on the American West with looks from Spool No. 72". It says that their merchandise "captures the essence of authentic American style and takes it to another level." There we go with throwing around the "authenticity" again.The article also notes that the clutches/bags are made in-house.

Overall, I'm a little perplexed. There's a chance that they could be a Native-run company, which would make sense given they claim the clutch is "Native hand made", but there isn't any further information to confirm/deny this. I'll keep looking around and keep you posted.



(Thanks sees!)

Friday, February 26, 2010

Nicole Richie's baby mocs


My fabulous little sister Michele found this from Nicole Richie's new baby clothes line for Kitson (called "House of Harlow"). Baby moccasins for $225?!

(Thanks Sees!)

Friday, February 19, 2010

Looks like Rachel Zoe was right...

(image via The Sartorialist)

Remember back in January when I posted the Rachel Zoe report about Lindsay Thornburg's Pendleton cloaks? Looks like they've invaded the NY fashion scene. I found this picture this morning on The Sartorialist, one of my favorite fashion blogs of on-the-street fashion, by photographer Scott Schuman. He tends to have his fingers on the pulse of fashion (look at me use a metaphor at 9:30 am), so we'll see if this is a trend with staying power.

I'll keep my eyes open for anything similar coming out of NY fashion week right now.




Wednesday, February 3, 2010

The Strange Case of the Hipster Headdress

 
(anyone know the source? I love this!) 

I think the graphic above (which I totally want on a shirt) sums it up well, but am I the only one who is baffled by the hipster headdress phenomenon? I've been trying to break it down, thinking back to the hippies of the past--connections to nature, to the mystical, against the mainstream, etc--but those stereotypes just don't seem to fit with today's hipster stereotypes. I'm guessing it's just an iteration of the tribal fashion trends, with a little bit of the desire to be counter culture thrown in there. 

After the jump, several examples from around the internets, and examples of how indie music has hopped on the appropriation train--Juliette Lewis and the Licks and Bat for Lashes are both fans of the hipster headdress. 


 

(image via latfh.com)

Look at this F***ing Hipster (another entertaining blog) has a slideshow entitled "Someone call the Headdress Police" which is a great compilation of the many iterations of the trend, and does a nice job at pointing out the ridiculousness of it all:

http://www.latfh.com/post/247408833/someone-call-the-headdress-police

I wish I could embed the slideshow, it's kinda awesome. 

Hipsterrunoff declared Native American fashion as "big" back in 2008, though doesn't include any headdress pics. But these pants are really nice:


http://www.hipsterrunoff.com/2008/08/native-american-fashion-is-big-in-18k8-2k09.html

Which brings us to the music scene. Two years ago Racialicious's Jessica Yee did a great post examining Juliette Lewis and her band The Licks, and tying it back to Indigenous Feminism. It's definitely worth a read if you have time. Juliette is fond of the "rock and roll warrior" look, which tends to include a headdress and facepaint:

 


 
(images via starpulse.com)

 Jessica ties it back to her feminist point of view:
What I find most interesting though about all this imagery, and in particular Lewis’s choice of dress with her band, is actually coming from my raging feminist point of view. In an attempt to appear strong, raw, and unapologetic, people, and in this case, a woman, feels like she has to appropriate Native culture to a pretty extreme extent in order to do a good job of it.
So I guess that goes back to my question about the reasoning behind the hipster appropriations--are hipsters trying to be strong, raw, and unapologetic? I can see the raw and unapologetic, maybe. But are the skinny guys in skinny jeans really going for "strong"?

Juliette and the Licks aren't the only band, the lead singer of a group (that I had admittedly never heard of) called Bat for Lashes is also big on the headdress:


(images via retroglo.net)

Since many of these posts are from 2008, it's interesting that the hipster headdress and the hipster-Native connection is one that has had a bit of staying power.

Semi-related: are there any self-identified Native hipsters out there? I'd love your thoughts.

UPDATE 4/27/2010: I've had a lot to think about since I wrote this post, so here's a more up-to-date version of my thoughts: But Why Can't I Wear a Hipster Headdress?

Related posts:

Racialicious Post on Juliette and the Licks: http://www.racialicious.com/2008/10/02/indigenous-feminism-and-cultural-appropriation/

Retroglo on Bat for Lashes: http://retroglo.net/headdress-the-newest-accessory-2/

Friday, January 29, 2010

Appropriations at Disney World Part 3: Disney Wilderness Lodge


yeah, that's a Navajo rug coke machine. Welcome to Disney's Wilderness Lodge! The pictures that follow are all from the lobby of the hotel, which describes its decor as:
Taking inspiration from the early 1900s—a time when the spirit of the American pioneer soared—and cues from Native American cultures, the theme of being in harmony with nature winds through Disney's Wilderness Lodge—inside and out. Authentic decor and genuine artifacts pay homage to ancient Native American cultures and the pioneering spirit of early American explorers
note the use of the words "authentic" and "genuine". After the jump, a million pictures of "authenticity" at its best. I also recommend a look at their website here.


some gorgeous moccasins in a display case, but with no description or anything to note if they're Native made, or where or when they're from.

from farther away--Plains style, eastern woodlands style...all together.

The first of a couple "Native" headdresses, the description on it read "inspired by a 19th century crow headdress." More like inspired by an ostrich.

This gem sits behind the check-in desk. If you can't tell from the picture it's a "peace pipe" with mickey mouse ears.

a line of cradle boards behind the reception desk (again with no descriptions or anything)

I found this juxtaposition nice...the Indian landscape with lincoln logs for the kids to practice being "pioneers"

Lamp at the restaurant

another "inspired by" headdress, this one "19th century Sioux"


apologies for the dark picture, but this is the totem pole that runs from the floor to the ceiling in the lobby

rug on the wall in the gift shop

Buckskin "dress" in the gift shop (it's actually just one layer, made to look like a dress)

lighting in the gift shop

Tipi lighting in the lobby

drum lighting outside the bathrooms

Disney totem pole outside the gift shop

"inspired by a 19th century crow headdress" I believe the exact words out of my mouth were: "omygod it looks like an effing muppet"

back of the muppet headdress, sorry my camera is bad at low light photos

see? totally the same.
(gotta love the labyrinth)


northwest coast designs on the pool bar

random artifacts thrown in a display case. Monica pointed out that most people would assume the horse hair on the right was a scalp (it's not).

Wall decoration: "inspired by 19th century sioux winter count"

Fireplace screen...they're making smoke signals.


Finally, for comparison's sake, the display case next to the fireplace. Rocks, Natives--same thing, right?